Special

Subjects

“Lay on your next section and sew it in the same way
but in the reverse direction, tying up with the first loose
end when you come to it. Sew the whole book in the
same way, tying on a new needleful of thread as each is
exhausted, making practicaUy a continuous thread going
backwards and forwards inside the sections and across the
slips from end to end of the book. Each succeeding
kettle stitch should be caught up by a loop (fig. 194),

Fig. 194.

and it is well to catch together the loose threads crossing
the slips.

“When the book is sewn, the back may be covered with
thin glue and lined with a piece of leather, but as this is
a little difficult to manage neatly, and as the book will
hold together without it, for a temporary binding the
sections may be left without glue.

“For the cover cut a piece of covering vellum1 (vellum
with a surface) large enough to cover the book and to
leave a margin of i| inches all round. Mark this with
& folder on the underside, as shown at A, fig. 195. Spaces
(1) and (2) are the size of the sides of the book with
the surrounding ‘ squares,’ 2 space (3) is the width of
the back, and space (4) the width for the overlaps on the
foredge.3 Cut the comers as shown at (5), and fold the
edges over as at B, and then fold over the overlaps and

1 Forrcl may be used as a cheap substitute for vellum.

* "Squares” = "the portion of the boards projecting beyond
the edges of the book."

' "Foredge” = “(fore edge) the front edge of the leaves."

312

V

5

1

3

2

\

A

\

/

4

1

3

2

\

/

\

В

Fig. 195.

back as at C. Be sure to make all folds sharp and
true.

“To avoid mistakes it is well to make a cover of stiff

3!3

Special

Subjects